Wednesday, July 20, 2016

Ulm

While my students went off to Prague for the weekend, I went to Ulm on Saturday. It's a very old city - founded around 850 CE - and is situated on the Donau (Danube) River. For some reason I am drawn to the Donau, not only because of the song. There are several cities on the Danube that I'd like to visit, not least of which is BudaPest, and also Bratislava. But they are too far to go for this trip. For now, I'll content myself with visiting the Bavarian cities on the Donau: Ulm, Ingolstadt, Regensburg. Yes, I know that Ulm is in Baden-Württemburg. But it used to be in Bavaria, and, being that Neu-Ulm across the river is in Bavaria, and noting that you are allowed to travel by train to Ulm using your Bayern ticket, I contend that it should count as Bavaria.


Here is a nice view of Ulm from 1572, in which you can see its most outstanding feature, the Ulmer Münster! This is a church that has the highest steeple in the world, measuring 161 m. You can climb to the top, which I did; well, almost the top. The stairs reach 143 m in 768 steps. And it takes about 20 minutes, unless you're very fit, but still you have to contend with people coming down. The first two thirds are "one way" stairs, so you can effectively go as fast as you wish.


However, the top third is a single stairwell climbing up the center of the the spire. As you can see from the photo below, there is a nice superstructure for the spire, with a column in the center, and a spiral staircase in the center of the column. There's not much room to pass, and some young children were a little frightened. And everyone had to take it slow.


Most of the city center was bombed by the RAF in 1944, but amazingly the Münster was essentially untouched. This was fortunate, because it's construction began in 1377, so it is a "cathedral" with much history. It wasn't completed until 1890 (talk about patience), and it also isn't technically a cathedral, since Ulm went Protestant in 1530 (it's now a Lutheran church).

When I got up to the top, the view, of course, was great. The red roofs of the city buildings spread out along the Donau were quite the sight.


In the photo on the left, from lower down (far below the top) you can clearly see the flying buttresses, as in Notre Dame. In the photo on the right, from the top, you can see the entire church, with the two steeples toward the east. I need to learn my cathedral architecture: chapel, nave, altar, etc. Here's one place to learn it.

Finally, the inside was incredibly large, and no pictures would do it justice. They did have beautiful stained glass windows, and I tried to give a feeling for them below. There were several along the sides of the church.